INSTRUCTIONS- Version 2(Newest)

Connecting the motor and controller should be pretty much self-explanatory, but here are some important facts:

Your controller is rated for no more than 35 amps, so it is VERY important to make sure that you use a fuse rated at 35a or less in the power line feeding the controller.

IMPORTANT! The keyed switch acts as a motor reversing switch when the unit is operating a neutrally timed motor. (such as the Kollmorgen motors) It will not properly reverse a motor such as the BMC that is manufactured with advanced timing. Attempting to reverse the rotation of a motor with advanced timing by using this switch could destroy the controller if throttle is applied. (gentle throttling would not cause instant destruction) I always attempt to ship with this key in its proper position. (turned to the 9 o’clock/3 o’clock position)

Just follow the color-coding. Black to Black, Green to Green, Yellow to Yellow. You will note that both the motor and  controller phase connectors are female quick-connects. Use the 50 amp maxi- fuses that came with your motor/controller to complete the phase connections. Use the quick ties (also included) to tightly bundle the 6 wire ends together. This is important to keep the phase connections secure.

The fusing of the phase connections is an important safety feature. It protects the controller.

It's a good idea to pinch all the phase connectors tight before inserting the fuses in order to assure the best connection possible. A loose fuse or fuses can significantly reduce performance.

IMPORTANT -A failure of a phase fuse is an indicator of a system failure. Examine the hall effect wiring for a loose or broken connection. If a failure occurs immediately after making your phase connections then double check to make sure your phase connections are correct. If you replace a failed phase fuse and it immediately fails again, contact us using the information at the end of the page.

Hall Sensor Connection

The 8 position connector accommodates the 5 Hall sensor wires and two positions devoted to an optional thermal cutoff switch for the motor. As installed, there is a short loop of black wire closing a circuit between the 6th and 7th pins. If desired, this loop can be cut and a cutoff switch put into the circuit. Installation of a thermal cutoff is recommended for 48v operation. Below 48v the cutoff shouldn't be so important. Eventually all motors will ship with thermal cutoffs.

This is the enable switch for the controller. When it is in the off position the light goes off and the controller won't operate, but don't mistake this for a true power switch. Even when in the off (disabled) position the controller is "on" and will produce a slow steady drain on your batteries. As with all controllers, you must have a main power switch in your system or the controller will run the batteries down to the point of destruction.

Standard connector for the typical 5k thumb throttle. (Currie or equiv) The controller can also be throttled with a Hall type throttle.

Some units will ship with a 2 position Molex connector compatible with the older style Currie brake inhibit connector. (used with the brushless motors) Many units will ship with the stock 3 position brake inhibit connector provided by the manufacturer. (due to the fact that it is impossible for me to predict which connector will be appropriate for a given customer’s system) I have plenty of the two position Molex connectors that were used with Curries brushless motor scooters. For a few bucks (including shipping) I can provide you with either or both connectors.

If you have any problems you can contact Tim O’Brien at powerpackmotors@socal.rr.com or call at (818)888-9533.